Monday, January 24, 2011

Hellshire, Jamaica

History
 
Hellshire is one of the oldest continuously settled areas in Jamaica, yet, it has traditionally been one of the most sparsely populated places on the island. Hellshire receives very little of the rainfall that keeps most of Jamaica green and lush, and only a small fraction of the less than 30-inches per year is retained in the highly porous limestone soil. The result is an extremely arid area with many rare species of flora and fauna specifically adapted to the environment. Ecologically rich as the area is, however, with no continuous fresh water supply, human communities have traditionally been small and transient. The area was originally settled by the island's first inhabitants, the Tainos, then later by groups of runaway slaves and communities of hunters and fishers determined to withstand the region's harsh terrain. Today there are plans to turn the area into a reserve for the protection of the important natural resources and the unique habitats of endangered and
protected species of flora and fauna. 
 
Local Flavour
 
Fort Clarence Beach is an excellent place to meet and hang out with ordinary Jamaicans. Named for the fort, which once stood as part of the ring of forts and batteries that protected Kingston Harbour from potential invaders, Fort Clarence Beach is the premier beach accessible to residents of Kingston and Portmore, and a popular venue for Reggae and Dancehall concerts. Farther along the coast, the fishing beach at Hellshire has become one of the most popular bathing beaches on the South Coast because of the spirit of community and the generally mellow vibe of the beach. Spend a day there and you will see fishing boats coming ashore intermittently, intercepted on the beach by hagglers who either cook on the beach or take the fish to be sold inland.
 
Famous For
 
The fishmongers on the beach here first created "festival", a sort of sweet bread usually served with fish, or so they claim. The seemingly simple recipe is often imitated, but rarely duplicated successfully. Kingstonians have many theories about this - some claim that a sprinkling of sand is the secret ingredient; others claim that a dash of seawater mixed into the batter is the trick. Either way, it is a tasty and filling complement to a meal of fresh escoviched fish that is practically synonymous with Hellshire.
 
Don't Miss
 
The Hellshire Hills are one of the last remaining habitats of the iguana, a large reptile that once roamed the entire island. Take a short hike to meet one of these colourful and stately creatures, but do not attempt to catch or even touch one - the iguana is a protected species under Jamaican law.
 
Say Hello To:
 
Miss May, who operates one of the most popular spots to enjoy a meal on the beach. Miss May is one of the longest-standing cooks, and her shack, occasionally run by one of her children, is easy to find from the road. Like many of the other vendors on the beach, Miss May specializes in fish and festival, although she will quickly identify someone to prepare lobster on request. The beauty of Hellshire, however, is that just about anything is possible, so if one vendor's prices or location doesn't suit you, there are close to 100 vendors on the beach to choose from.
 
 

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